Saturday, March 17, 2012

A Lollybags dress (photo heavy)

 Wow! 3 Weeks..... oops, time flies when you are sewing.... well that's my excuse!
Anyway, I thought I would show you what goes into one of my dresses.
This is a dress for my sister, who has taken great pleasure in sifting through my vintage patterns and has picked 10 or 20 she would like to have made but decided on pattern 125 to start things off.

 Although technically underwear at the time this was published it well and truly passes as an acceptable dress these days.

I drafted the pattern and, having plenty of the fabric I was using to line the bodice with, I went about creating a test bodice to make sure everything lined up properly

Hooray for Wilma!
Once sewn together I can see several issues with the pattern. For one the bodice isn't long enough.

And the sides don't match up. Easy fixed!
I lengthened the bodice pattern pieces and added about 1.5" to the bottom of the bodice side piece.
I re-cut and and sewed the bodice again.

Much Better!! As you can see from the chalk marks its still not quite right.
I decided at this point that no matter how much help Wilma is it's just not quite the same as a proper fitting so I tackled my sister, who generally runs around like a headless chook, and got her to try it on...... too small..... Bugger! So I redrafted and did it all for a 3rd time to make sure the fit was perfect. 3rd times the charm as it fit her perfectly.

With pattern all sorted out it's time to move on to the dress fabric. Making the bodice in the fabric she chose identically to the lining

 Made the straps which are double turned 1/4", ironed and top stitched.

 And all sewn together. YAY! I love this point when you can see the end and everything looks the way it is supposed to

 Draft the skirt and cut out. As I made this is high quality cotton it is fairly thick won't be needing a lining and attached it to the bodice

 I hand finish everything, making sure everything sits as it should and the lining is hiding all the construction signs.

 I ended up adding a belt to break up the pattern a little, A zip in the back and this should be a very comfortable Summer/ Spring dress easily teamed with a cardigan. I will post some photos of my sister when I can get her to stand still long enough to take a non blurry photo